The Channel Islands

The Channel Islands are a group of islands off the coast of Normandy, northern France.  Their unique history has created an unusual combination of English and French cultures.  This, together with the pretty scenery and sunny climate, makes them a popular holiday destination.  The Channel Islands are not one of Europe’s microstates, but like Andorra, Liechtenstein and Monaco they owe their status to the peculiarities of history.  I am fascinated by such places and hope you will enjoy this gallery about my trip there.

The Channel Islands are British Crown Dependencies or self-governing possessions of the British Crown and as such are not part of the United Kingdom, the Commonwealth or the European Union.

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The origins of this unusual status can be traced back to 933 when the islands became part of the Duchy of Normandy.  In 1066, William Duke of Normandy invaded England, won the Battle of Hastings and became its King – William the Conqueror. 

A century and a half later, King John (the one who features unfavourably in the Robin Hood stories) lost the Norman territories to France.  Some years on, one of John’s successors surrendered his claim to the Duchy of Normandy, but kept the Channel Islands.  Since then, the islands have been governed as possessions of the Crown separate from the rest of Britain.

The islands are now the last remaining territories of the Duchy of Normandy.  Here, Queen Elizabeth II is often referred to by her traditional title of Duke of Normandy, although since the 13th century the reigning monarch has governed as king or queen rather than as duke.  Even so, at formal dinners locals toast to ‘The Queen, our Duke’, rather than to ‘Her Majesty, The Queen’ as in the UK.

The eight inhabited islands and six uninhabited islets that make up the Channel Islands are divided into two separate bailiwicks (a territory run by a bailiff):  the Bailiwick of Jersey and the Bailiwick of Guernsey.  Each bailiwick has its own currency – Jersey pounds and Guernsey pounds – and, unlike mainland Britain, still uses one pound notes rather than coins.  The Channel Islands have important off shore banking industries.

The two largest islands are Jersey and Guernsey.  Of the other inhabited islands, Alderney, Sark and Herm are the biggest with populations of 2000, 600 and 60 respectively.  Saint Helier, the compact capital of Jersey (pop. 28 000), and Saint Peter Port (pop. 16 500), the capital of Guernsey, look much like any small seaside towns on the British mainland.

The islands’ proximity to France – just 13 km at the nearest point – and their history give them a particular atmosphere.  Historically, French was the lingua franca.  Today, English dominates, but French remains an official language.  A number of other languages with their origins in Norman French are also spoken, such as Jèrrais on Jersey and Guernésiais on Guernsey, but, sadly, the numbers of speakers is declining.

During the Second World War, the Channel Islands were the only part of the British Isles to be occupied by German forces.  There are still many historical sites and museums which trace the islands’ wartime history.

Guernsey was once home to the French writer Victor Hugo.  After first going into exile in Brussels and Jersey, he moved to Saint Peter Port on Guernsey and lived there from 1855-70.  His home, Hauteville House, is now owned by the City of Paris, which runs a Victor Hugo museum in part of it.  On my tour of the early 19th century building, the guide explained that Hugo’s real passion was not writing, but interior design.  Each room is decorated in a completely different style.

More recently, Jersey was the home of naturalist and writer Gerald Durrell, who set up a small zoo on the island – the Durrell Wildlife Park – which focuses on saving endangered species from extinction.

One animal you can see grazing in the fields of Jersey are the island’s famous cows.  A small breed with a fawn coat, their milk is particularly rich and creamy.  One way to sample it is in delicious Jersey fudge!