Ancient Sea Port on the Gulf of Aden

In ancient times the port of Berbera in Somaliland was known as Malao.  Ships would sail into its harbour on the Gulf of Aden bringing tunics and cloaks, cups, copper and iron and left carrying frankincense, myrrh and cinnamon.  Berbera is also thought to be the town of Bobali, referred to by the 9th-century Chinese […]


The Horn of Africa's Best Kept Secret

When I told people I was going to Somaliland most people thought I meant Somalia and once again assumed I was trotting off to a war zone – something I do not actually do but for which I seem to have acquired a reputation.  In fact, Somaliland declared independence from Somalia in 1992 but has […]

The Hyenas of Harar

Nighttime Visitors to Ethiopia's Walled City

The fortified town of Harar in predominantly Christian eastern Ethiopia is said to be the fourth holiest city in Islam.  Although as a trading place it is a melting pot of African and Islamic cultures, historically Harar was relatively isolated in the region.  As a result, it has developed certain unique cultural aspects, such as […]

The Salt Caravans of the Danakil Depression

A disappearing world

The Danakil Depression on the border between Ethiopia and Eritrea is one of the hottest places on earth.  Temperatures can exceed 50 degrees centigrade, with the year-round average being 35 degrees.  For most of the year, there is virtually no rain.  The Depression is also one of the lowest points on the planet, reaching 125 […]

2015 – A Personal Retrospective

As the new year gets into the swing, it is time to look back on 2015.  Our world has many natural and cultural riches and I was fortunate to be able to experience some of them. The first big trip of the year was to Ethiopia, a country with a wonderful mix of culture, history […]

A Tale of Three Cities

Shanghai, Hong Kong, Macao

Shanghai, Hong Kong, Macao – three cities, each with a different colonial history.  Discovering the nuances – and the contrasts – between them was what inspired me to visit the oriental trio this autumn.  I was not disappointed! The first time I became aware of Shanghai’s colonial past was as a child when I read […]


Desert Land of Colours and Contrasts

Turkmenistan is perhaps not at the top of everybody’s bucket list – indeed, it gets only 6,500 tourists a year – but it has a lot to offer the traveller looking for a trip with a difference.  From spectacular landscapes worthy of the best sci-fi movies to ruins of ancient trading cities, from its quirky, […]

Ascension Island

Lava and Land Crabs, Turtles and Terraforming

Ascension Island is a volcanic island just south of the equator about halfway between Brazil and Africa.  It was the second stop on my trip to the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena, Ascension and Tristan da Cunha, three small islands scattered far apart from each other in the South Atlantic.  My journey had begun […]